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To Delhi, With Love?

Delhi has lived by Mirza Ghalib’s beautiful words—‘Ye duniya maano jism hai aur Dilli uski jaan’?

Tribhuvan Tiwari

She is a city of dreams. Of mystics and poets. Of love and scandal. And according to some, of Djinns. Of power and balance. Of history and legends. She is a city of culture and food. Of safe havens and development. She is the capital. She is also the city that has seen empires rise. And fall. And rise again, like a phoenix. And it is only with this, and more, that despite the undeniable chaos, she has a studied calmness. Only something as old and experienced as her can have this calmness in chaos. She is Delhi—the capital of the world’s largest (and perhaps greatest) democracy. 

The story of Delhi, as we now know it, springs from much larger ambitions of establishing a capital for an empire (rather empires). But I barely have the ink (or the intellect) to convincingly go that far. I look at the living city as we know it today. What strikes me the most is how welcoming this city has been. Driving through the city, one sees the various colonies—welcoming those who have lost all—to come make a new life here. Be it the Tibetean Colony or Jangpura—the city has welcomed all with open arms. And the contribution to the city has left an undeniable mark on the city’s multifaceted character and has enriched the character that perhaps is unrivalled.

As the seat of power, the houses of Parliament, the Supreme Court and the entire Rajpath area present a picture of grace. It is worth noting that the buildings signify a lot more than appears at first blush. The distinct features of architecture are certainly symbolic, drawing from the rich history of the country. The wide lanes, lined by jamun trees and shady roads lined by neem trees certainly resonate with these ideals. 

Culturally, the city has some of the finest gems. Places like schools of law, architecture and policy have produced some of the brightest in the world. Not to forget the National School of Drama—the cradle of some of the finest in the film industry. The museums are rich and as are other places that preserve culture. The National Gallery of Modern Art houses some of the most famous pieces—many of these changed the face or art forever and to be amongst them is a privilege Delhi gracefully allows. The Faqir Chand bookshop is one such haven, that truly represents Delhi. Founded in 1930s Peshawar and displaced by partition, the shop still continues to run by the fourth generation of the family—independent and family-run. Like Delhi, there is also calmness and order in chaos. 

The food of Delhi is undoubtedly a true representation of the city—culturally significant and invented out of need and demand and sometimes out of pure human imagination. From Mughlai to Tibetean—everything co-exists in harmony. And sometimes, fusion of these brings some of the most intriguing dishes to the fore.

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Delhi is also so incredibly fortunate to have so many open spaces and spectacular architecture. With numerous Archaeological Survey of India monuments and UN Heritage sites, Delhi is truly blessed. From the rustic lanes of Chandni Chowk to the grandeur of the Lodhi Garden, and the finesse of Sunder Nursery, Delhi is a fit place to explore the outdoors. 

They say any city has a distinct season, and a distinct character. In Delhi, each month and season brings a certain delight. The winters with an insatiable appetite for chai and the summers with a bounty of mangoes. October brings the sweet scent of Madhumalti and the beginning of winter has a whiff of the scholar’s tree flower throughout the city. Peacocks and greenery come alive in the monsoons and Amaltas brave the summer sun with resilience and a clear message—nothing intimidates those who dare! 

Cities are only as good as the people that inhabit them. With a rising population, Delhi also, heartbreakingly, finds itself on the unenvious list of being the most polluted. Water shortage, infrastructural challenges and other problems come to the fore. Much needs to be done and done in a sustainable manner.

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As a city that has seen so much, there is nothing more important than ensuring the city has a fair chance. It is imperative that action is taken to preserve this living cultural icon that stands testament to today’s India. 

Perhaps Mirza Ghalib should have the last word—‘Ik roz apni rooh se poocha, ke Dilli kya hai, to yun Jawab me keh gayi, Ye duniya maano jism hai aur Dilli uski jaan’. Much like the city, this perhaps is best left translated by me. To a city that we all love—rising above all the differences. To Delhi, with love. 

Vishavjeet Chaudhary is a Delhi-based lawyer. He is a keen equestrian and loves to travel  

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